To stay updated on our next episode, subscribe to our Youtube channel
There are times we cannot tell because they have not yet happened. The end of this story is still to come. It is a book that is being written far from the media and the world’s attention. It is an unfolding conclusion with each page bringing us a little closer to the final chapter.
This story tells the dream of a few thousand people who, for three generations, have been trying to make the world better, each in their own way, each at their own pace, but all convinced that we can live each of our days differently by infusing meaning into everything and poetry into every gaze.
It’s the story of a city in the making, of a once dead piece of land that, over the decades, has become a bubble of paradise, attracting thousands of visitors each year in search of meaning.
This is the story of Auroville, the city that sought to find solutions to humanity’s excesses.
It may sound corny when said like that, but it is the ultimate goal of this project, inaugurated by about one hundred countries in nineteen sixty-eight, to achieve human unity and build the city that the earth needs. A vast program. Enough to develop an exceptional spiritual ego. Well, yet, they did it.
For my part, I’m just a witness to this adventure, I wasn’t born there. My parents didn’t work there all their lives, but I’ve been part of it at my level long enough to see the beauty of this project and cry in despair as I watch it slowly being poisoned. I will not speak in my own name for reasons you will soon understand, and because I am just a straw in this adventure.
This story will not follow a logical, meticulous, or chronologically coherent thread. It will be a series of anecdotes, life moments, successes, and failures. It will be the life of those who, day after day, seek to build this utopian city that is Auroville, and of those who, for the past three years, have sought to seize it. If there is so little talk about Auroville in the media, it is for several reasons.
First of all, Auroville is not intended to be a tourist attraction. The city has therefore only attracted over the years those who discovered it like finding a four-leaf clover during a joyful Sunday walk.
Then, no one has been savagely massacred since the beginning of the crisis that threatens to destroy the slow work done by a few thousand people for nearly seventy years. It is a much more insidious death, a slow poison that drains its residents of their energy and drives them to flee.
And above all, hardly anyone spoke of Auroville because of fear. Because since the early days of this tragedy, merely mentioning it could mean expulsion from the country for a foreigner or the threat of prison for an Indian. It has now been more than three years since the tragedy began its early acts. Three years since bulldozers, protected by more than two hundred police officers, started methodically destroying the nature and joy of the inhabitants.
Perhaps I will tell you about that dreadful night in the next chapter. Perhaps not. I would prefer to talk to you about the hundreds of birds welcoming the dawn around me as I write these lines. But to protect future dawns, it seems more urgent to bring darkness to light.
Welcome to Auroville.
Planting a tree in fertile and welcoming soil is already an adventure. Trying to do it in dead land is the achievement of a lifetime. Repeating that same madness millions of times is typically Auroville.
It took more than sixty years to transform a desert into what we now call Bliss Forest, the forest within which the Youth Center was built. We are in the heart of the city, a few hundred meters from the administrative buildings, a stone’s throw from the schools. Here, there are no trees in the garden of the houses, but houses hidden under the trees.
Here, the native forest of the region is finally taking its first steps, protected by more resilient foreign species that ensure its growth. Here, the tall trees create the near future, and the small ones ensure the region’s future. And in this whirlpool of newfound vitality, the animals return. The water has found a new haven of peace. Life is reborn at its own pace. Like everything in this city that evolves according to the cycles of nature.
There are several bike paths to cross the forest. Thanks to these, you can get anywhere in just a few minutes, in the most poetic way possible. Yet, this morning, a man is running on one of these red dirt paths. He was the first to notice a break in the birds’ song, the noise of the JCB, its iconic bulldozers. When he arrives at the entrance of Bliss Forest, two of these metal giants are already at work, accompanied by various officials and several people filming the scene.
I will talk to you later about the discontented ones, but let’s say that a good number of them were accompanying the bulldozers, because in Auroville, some feel that development is not happening fast enough. And thanks to the new authoritarian administration imposed on the residents recently, they had found an echo for their dogmatic vision and thought they could use it to impose their vision of the city’s future.
They were therefore proud as peacocks. They would be able to remove those trees that stood uselessly in the path of the road they envisioned there. And as everyone knows, roads are exactly what the earth needs.
They then began to massacre the trees. There are no other words. A Jessy-B in a forest is like a car in a crowd. It mows down. But that was without counting on the conservator. He threw himself onto the moving bulldozer, preventing it from continuing. The tone rises, threats are flying. It is a government project, opposing it is illegal, say the antagonists. The conservationist doesn’t care. He tries to call for help on his phone while avoiding being crushed by the call of the JCB. The tension is palpable. A resident films the scene. He apologizes for shaking. The curator steps back, a woman takes his place, then another resident, all under the arrogant smiles of their group’s cameraman. The curator demands that they film a poor small shrub a few centimeters in diameter. It is protected and is actually older than the thirty-meter giants creating the canopy.
In a few minutes, more than one hundred residents rushed in. It is a little past nine in the morning. The day will be long, the night ahead even longer. But now, the bulldozers and their advocates are clearly in the minority. The residents are angry. Some stay under the cover of the trees to avoid being filmed. Others go to confront. The massacre stops, resistance is organized. Water, coffee, and supplies to withstand the siege are being sought. Rumors say that the Foundation has called the police.
The amusing anecdote from these first moments is that normally, there is no cell signal in the forest. Aurovilians always refused mobile phone towers on this land to preserve the environment, but the new Secretary, one of the key figures in these events, installed one for her personal comfort. Thank you, madam.
The residents wait for the police. The dogmatics are stamping with impatience. The police arrive. The dogmatics demand to be protected in their divine work. The residents ask for an end to this nonsense. There is discussion, there is arguing. Meanwhile, calls are made to politicians and other high-ranking officials of all stripes. Finally, the police ask everyone to go home and invite the Aurovilians to find an internal solution. In other words, stop your childishness, we have other things to do. The massacre then stops for today. If we had known… but no, we did not know. So, we did what a community does in times of crisis. It gathers together, it tries to make decisions.
A few hours later, the planning and executive officials are summoned to answer for their actions. The scene is absurd. The disconnect between the residents and those they elected to manage the project is complete. Demands and votes are made for the immediate stop of the massacre and the resignation of the dogmatists. Then everyone goes home. But everyone feels a change in the energy of Auroville. A dark door has opened in the green paradise.
The evening is tense. The first groups form on mobile phones and for the first time this night, many residents will not set their phones to airplane mode. We had experienced our first bombardment and were ready to face what came next. At least, that’s what we thought. The night would prove us wrong.
So wrong.
Despite the chaos of the previous day, no one in Auroville thought the situation would deteriorate so quickly. Not even the residents of the Youth Center. When you live in paradise, when you take part in an adventure as peaceful as Auroville, you don’t expect to be surrounded by two hundred police officers in the middle of the night, much less to see them protecting bulldozers.
Yet there had been warning signs before the shock of the previous day—tremors hinting at the coming earthquake. A few days earlier, the bulldozers were nothing more than chimeras, grey shadows in the atrophied minds of a few, scraps of paper in the form of threatening letters its new administration, which was already showing a pronounced disregard for the Auroville regulations. “Collaborate or be destroyed,” they warned. “If you’re not with us, you’re against the government.” Harsh words. Threats. “We will build a road whether you like it or not.” But no one believed it. Auroville is accustomed to the ephemeral demands of bureaucrats, and no one would be foolish enough to build a road without first buying all the land to complete it. They did not fully grasp the nature of the antagonists in this story and their masters.
To put yourself in the shoes of the inhabitants, imagine you are eighteen years old. You live in one of the many houses built in the trees. Your bedroom soars nearly ten meters above the ground, and it is to the song of birds that you wake every morning. You’ve spent the day reimagining the world with friends, preparing pizzas in the wood-fired oven for “Pizza Night,” and taking part in one of the center’s activities with friends from all corners of India and the world. The common language is English, intermingled with Tamil and whatever else you can imagine—because that doesn’t really matter. You live in a place without rent, free from the monthly pressures of the “modern” world. You have time to read Indian philosophers and manga, to work on yourself and for others. After that eventful Saturday, you still feel light-hearted. The residents demanded an end to the massacre, and it would never occur to you that anyone could dare to ignore that demand. You’d be mistaken.
You are suddenly awakened by the sound of machines. It’s just past midnight. The crickets have fallen silent. You open your eyes because of flashing lights tearing through the night and screams coming from the forest. You carefully descend from your nest, trying to discern the source of the tumult, using your phone as a flashlight. A friend calls out to you, panic in his eyes:
“Bulldozers are back. They’re coming. No one can get through. The police have blocked all access points. We must do something.”
Shocked, you join a gathering near the source of the chaos. About fifteen other young people are on their phones, calling for help. And in the distance, you hear the sound of falling trees, cracking branches, the forest collapsing before the harsh lights of the bulldozers.
Panic-stricken, you search for your own phone. You call friends, family—anyone who might come to your aid.
Finally, the message gets out. Children reach out to a few sleepless parents. The parents wake their neighbors, and dozens of people rush out into the darkness to join you, only to be quickly intercepted by an obscene number of police officers. They encircle the area, demand passports and visas, shining their torches into the faces of the intruders. Such a display of force is unprecedented in Auroville.
A few courageous ones defy the barricades, weaving through the darkened trees, hoping not to disturb a snake’s nest or a herd of wild boars. They eventually manage to join you, to confront the bulldozers, to stand by your side. The atmosphere grows tense. Adults demand explanations while searching for their children amid the turmoil. They are harshly rebuked. Some young people resist and are hauled off into cars. Others intervene, freeing them. The tension mounts. And meanwhile, the trees keep falling, one after the other, each minute erasing years of reforestation efforts.
The JCBs finally arrive in front of the Youth Center buildings. They have slowly fragmented the forest to reach their goal. Now, they intend to destroy the buildings—right there, in the middle of the night. Fortunately, a sizeable crowd now stands in opposition to the machines, halting the mechanical shovels before they demolish an inhabited building. Tragedy was imminent.
Since that day, the Aurovilians have learned at their own expense that the methods of the new administration disregard rules and truth. They operate by the principle of the fait accompli. What is destroyed is destroyed—move on or file a complaint if you can. That night, enough residents overcame their fear and managed to stop the massacre. It would be one of the first and last times.
It only took a few hours. When the sun finally rose, a corridor had ripped through the forest for a good hundred meters. The bulldozers returned to rest while the inhabitants tried to comprehend what had just happened, preparing coffee. They needed to imagine what would come next. Yet at that moment, no one still believed in the impending disaster. No one dared name the beast. No one dared say, “They will kill Auroville.”
How could they? The “brain fever” – those persistently singing birds – herald the coming day. A few mongooses wander between fallen trunks. Depending on where you look, nothing appears lost. Not yet. And yet, bombs did indeed fall. They didn’t kill anyone; they merely sabotaged the dream of building the city “that the earth needs.” It was the second bombing. There will be many more.
That morning, the pizza oven was still standing. So was the playroom. The threats of deportation were not even yet a chimera.
But the self-proclaimed masters had launched their first attacks. They were searching for their bearings. They will find them soon